Fokker D.VII Build

When DML released the Fokker D.VII with the Ernst Udet bust, I was interested in the bust, not the kit. I could not justify buying a model that I had no plans to build just for the prize in the box. Cracker Jacks comes to mind and I didn't buy them either. However, I digress. Through the years I have always wanted the Udet bust and recently a friend got one on Ebay and I traded a few kits for it. I was very happy with my Udet bust but now have a kit that I am not going to build. . .until recently.

I received a call from a gentleman that wanted to give me some WW1 photographs that a friend of his had been collecting for many years. He said he would like to have a built kit in exchange for the photos. Ah, now the D.VII will have a home. So I stalled him for two weeks so I could have a completed kit when he gave the photos. I chose the 48th scale kit as he is 75 years old and I wanted him to have a kit that he didn't need a magnifying glass to see. The exchange was made and he was more than happy with his red and white Fokker D.VII.

Let me make one point here. I love 1/48th scale kits. The detail is excellent and they are very impressive when completed. But when I returned to modelling in 1980, 1/48th WW1 models were not available in large numbers. Also, I had a severe space limitation problem. That is why I built in 1/72nd scale. 25 years later all of my kits are 1/72nd and all of my circuits are wired for 1/72nd and it's expensive to rewire an old guy. And space is still a consideration. So, when I build 1/48th for someone else, I get the best of both worlds. I get to build a very nice kit but I do not have to figure out where to put it.

By now you must be wondering if there is a kit in here somewhere, so let's get on with it. First, I highly recommend an excellent review and build article by Bob Laskodi in the October 2000 Internet Modeler (http://www.internetmodeler.com). I have the same lament Bob has. It's a shame this fine kit has not been re-released since its initial release in 1994. It is an accurate and easy to build kit right out of the box.

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There are three separately wrapped trees of parts that are without any flash. The cabane struts are molded at an angle on the tree and both of mine were broken. Easy repair but annoying. There are nickel metal etched parts, which will present their own problems later down the road. The decal sheet is well printed and pre-cut so there will be no waste. Two mistakes were found in that the rudder crosses were printed in white so as to become invisible when applied to the white tail of the plane. DML provides a replacement set in the box. However, they did not provide a replacement for the upper wing crosses that are also printed in white and need to be black without any surround. Again, an easy fix but annoying.

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I started with the engine and assembly is quick and easy. I painted it Steel with black highlights. Testors Rust was used for the exhaust and this assembly did not exceed an hour.

The cockpit was a little more detailed but very straight forward. The combination of the metal etch and plastic works well together. If you want to add some body to the control stick, some have built up the metal with plastic to give it a more correct thickness. I painted mine and dropped it in. After I had this assembly together, it was time to attach the seat belts. This is where I found out the nickel etch does not bend like the brass etch. In fact, they would hardly bend at all. So attaching the belts to their neat little attachment pins did not work. I had to remove them, pre-bend then and stick them in. As you can see from the photo, one seat belt is missing. As I was bending its companion, it launched into space. I saw it, I followed its decent all the way to the ground at my feet. Assuming the position of finding lost parts, I hit the floor in search of my missing seat belt. Human eyes have never seen that belt again. Short of a Saint Bernard, I used every trick in the book to find my missing part, alas, to no avail. So my pilot will just have to hold on tight when he flies.

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At this point I added all of the metal etched parts to the fuselage sides, glued in the engine and cockpit assembly and the instrument panel. I could not quite figure out part C4 so I decided to add it after the fuselage was assembled. With that, I closed the fuselage, attached the radiator and the lower wing.

Now is the time for putty work. There is not a great deal to do here. The lower wing fit is good and the seam in the middle of the fuselage requires minor work. The radiator fit was not the best, so a little more work was required here. The horizontal tail plane was attached at the same time as a little putty work was required where it merged with the fuselage.

The machine guns are little works of art with the exception of the wonderful nickel etched jackets. I had problems getting them round and you only one shot that feat. But after painting and attaching the bullet feeds, they look good.

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The fuselage, horizontal and rudder and wheel covers are painted Testors Red. The top wing is painted Model Master White, 5mm stripes are added using Bob's method. I set up one stripe near the middle of the wing, then cut 5mm strips of scotch tape. I started by applying three strips of scotch tape, then remove the middle strip. I then moved in both directions, removing every other strip of tape. I carefully wrapped it around the wing and then painted the red. A little touch up was needed and the top wing was complete.

The lower wing, bottom and tail plane are kit decals, very nicely precut. The fit is good with very little trimming needed afterward. The wing decals have a line for the rib tapes and it helps to keep the tape straight. I had some old Super Scale 1/72nd decals that I used for the blue rib tape. The Super Scale rib tape is not 1/72nd scale: they are closer to 1/48th. All of the remaining decals were added and the plane is ready for final assembly.

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I started with the wheel assembly. Again, if you chose to build up the metal etched parts, this is the time to do it. I dry fit mine until they fit and attached them to the fuselage and spreader bar. I rigged this assembly and then attached the wheels. The tailskid and rudder are glued on now. Now is the best time to attach the machine guns. They will present a problem if you attach them after the top wing is attached.

The more difficult assembly is the attachment of the top wing. The holes in the fuselage and top wing did not want to match with the cabane struts. There is some stress here on the cabanes so I would proceed with caution. After some major tweaking, I had the wing attached at the fuselage area. The outer struts presented a challenge as the wing gap was just a bit too much. I didn't want to squeeze too hard so as not to crush the cabane area. After the wing is attached to my satisfaction, little fiddly bits are added to taste and the model is complete. One of my fiddly bits was the commander's ribbons attached to the tail. I had some silk for stick models that I cut and stained with the proper color.

Oh, by the way, I never figured out how to attach part C4. I left it off.

I estimate it took me about 15 hours to build the kit over an eight day period.

This is a recommended kit and it builds into a very impressive model. A person could actually get hooked in this scale if one is not careful. If you like the larger models, 1/48th gives you excellent detail. And there is an ever-increasing number of 1/48th WW1 models on the market today that can lead to a nice collection of models. I highly recommend this kit.

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