DURAS

This method has always been referred to as "my rigging system". In 1998, a friend called my method the "Dennis Ugulano Rigging Attachment System" or DURAS. From that time on, my rigging method has been known as DURAS.

How it works:

I build the entire fuselage less the tail assembly unless the rudder is attached. I will install the lower wing and paint this entire section in the colors I have chosen.

Locate all rigging attachment points on the fuselage. Usually two in line with the wing strut mounting holes. Sometimes there are one or two near the nose. Check the rear of the fuselage for some that may support the tail. Holes that I cannot reach the other side, I call Starting Points.

Locate all holes on the tail section and drill thru the part. Some planes have rigging top and bottom; some are supported from the bottom by struts.

Now the struts and the disclaimer. WW1 rigging goes from the base of the strut via a turn buckle to its opposite counterpart. To correctly rig, say an AVRO 504K, there will be 8, 474 separate pieces of rigging. Where as some may not object to that form of masochism, I have not yet reach that stage of inflicting pain upon myself. Not far, mind you, but not yet.

Set the strut (dry fit) into it's locating hole and as far down as you can on the strut, mark and drill your hole. The closer you can drill to your glue point, the better the rigging will look. The downside is after you have the model together and you start rigging, you find your hole glued closed. Do not despair, help is on the way.

After all struts, cabanes, landing struts, skis, whatever, are drilled you are ready for assembly. If you paint after drilling, run your drill thru the hole to clear it.

At this point it will become obvious what you are going to accomplish. Put a drop of super glue on a piece of glass or other none pourous surface. Very fresh super glue is hard to work with, I like it slightly stiff. Go to one of your starting holes, dip the invisible thread in the glue. You want to get a small drop on the thread just back from the tip. This will allow you to start the thread into the hole and push it in before it dries. After it dries, following the rigging plan of the model, lace the thread thru its appropriate holes. Continue this until you have reached the end of a run. On some models I have run as many as 10 holes before reaching a stopping point. Pull the thread tight thru the last hole, back up and make sure it is tight and then hang a clothespin from this thread. Now using a piece of finely stretched sprue, dip it in the glue and touch it to the last hole only. After a few seconds tug on the clothespin. If dry, let the pin down and with a very sharp knife, reach in and cut the thread. When your pin falls, you have made your cut. You have only two glue points for however many runs. Continue to make your major runs.

CAUTION: Some holes will have more than one line thru them. Make sure no gluing is done to these holes until all threads have been run. A #79 drill hole can with a little work take up to 4 wires.

Work slowly especially on long runs, checking for tightness. This invisible thread life is unknown to me. I have kits 20 years old the rigging as tight as the day I put it in. But lets say after you are finished and there is a sagging line. Take one of the simple soldering irons and plug it in. As it heats up, hold it near the sagging thread and watch as it tightens. DO NOT TOUCH THE THREAD!! If you do, you will then be able to learn the art of repair.

The thread I use is call Transparent Nylon Sewing Thread and you can find it at a fabric store. I buy the dark clear as it give me a more authentic look. It comes in spools of 100 yards. I have been using this method probably 25 years total and am on my second spool. I know, I know, my spending is out of control. I find this thread looks good for both 1/72 and 1/48. A little more body is needed in the larger scales but the method is the same.

In 1999, I changed DURAS for the first time. The nylon sewing thread is about 3 pound test line, which is a little heavy for control lines. I found a "fishing nylon leader material extra limp small diameter 1 pound test line" that works well for control lines.

That is pretty much my method. Start with something simply like a Sopwith Pup not the Russian bomber (four hours just in the tail section) and play with it. I think you will find the method simple and easy to master.

If any questions, I will help in any way I can.

Repairs

The kit is together, and you start running the thread through the holes, only to find glue has sealed one shut.

Take your drill chuck and extend the drill as far out as possible. It will be very flexible, so handle it with care. Now, reach into the clogged hole, keep the drill as flat as possible, to avoid damaging the surface, redrill the hole. By working slowly, the hole can be reopened.